There’s a place we go every time we’re in La Rochelle. Many of you have turned away after the first couple of steps.
The dark doorway leads to a front bar that seems to now function as a backroom. You think, ‘perhaps renovations are going on and the place hasn’t opened yet. Or the cleaners must be in, and left the door open’. It could do with a good scrub. Your heels stick to the floor as you take squeaking steps in. ‘We’ll come back later’, you pretend as you leave to settle at one of the many welcoming spots that litter the rest of the pedestrian street. A big mistake.
L’Alibi seems to snigger at you and shrug its shoulders in that French ‘it’s your loss’ way. T’ant pis.
The walls are a gritty and yellow like an old smoker’s crunchy nails.
After a day discussing boat specifications with the ship-builder, sourcing parts at chandleries and solving problems with outfitters, we won’t always go there directly. Instead, when we’re on time to catch the sunset over the Atlantic, the town’s open spots beckon with beer and boules to entertain us on the side. After sunset, we’re off in search of other magical moments.
Beyond that first empty bar, you’ll see – if you look – there’s another space further, down a narrow corridor. First you smell the musty damp of a cellar but there are no steps to go down. The walls are gritty and yellow like an old smoker’s crusty nails. In the gloomy distance you catch a glimpse of crackled, dark leather armchairs. A barrel table. All empty. Not inviting. But keep going. Shuffle past a trap door on your left and venture further into the vein-like alley.
Even after the 20th time there’s still a moment of suspense as we stroll in to towards the main room and immediately glance left to the wonderous bar!
Over 200 different bottles of rum are displayed on shelves. The bar counter decorated with old cassette players presents bulging-stomach bottles of potent Rum Punch. Go for Orange and Passionfruit or Raspberry if you like it sweet before dinner. With something in your stomach, select a P’tit Punch. A chalky blackboard lists the usual refreshing Mojitos, Caipirinhas, a retro Pina Colada. Choose your rum or let yourself be skilfully led by Biggie. If you know your drink, he’ll challenge you with choices and his unique twist on a classic. EVERYTHING is generous and knockout good. The music funky and familiar. You move and are moved.
This is where you need to be.
L’ALIBI
53 Rue St Jean du Pérot, 17000 La Rochelle, France
Open daily, 5pm to 2 am.
0 Comments