A stop in the Sardinian city of Cagliari is a great opportunity to provision. The quality of local and seasonal produce is expectedly fantastic but it’s the availability and choice of a wide range of oriental and global ingredients that’s a welcome surprise. Those of you who stay longer will have plenty of opportunities to find your own favourites, that’s part of the enjoyment in a new place isn’t it? However, if you’re pressed for time, you won’t go wrong doing the round of these stores. All are within walking distance of the Portus Karalis marina.

I haven’t included any of the large supermarkets. These are obviously convenient for all your basics and easy to locate. The best supermarket near the marina is the large Iper Pan on Viale la Plaia.

Best Markets

San Benedetto Municipal Market

Via Francesco Cocco Ortu, 46

This is no secret or hidden tip. Just a reminder that you absolutely mustn’t skip a visit to the biggest market in Cagliari and one of the largest indoor markets in Europe. The two-story building houses fish and seafood on the lower floor and everything else on the upper floor. Hundreds of stalls with the freshest produce, great meat and cheese counters and fantastic atmosphere. Stock up on big chunks of aged parmesan (they’ll vacuum pack for you) to keep you going for months. When you’re done shopping, head across the street for an aperitivo at Pirani.

Mercato di Campagna Amica di Cagliari Coldiretti

Piazza dei Centomila, Cagliari

Every Thursday. These are market stalls set up by the farmers and producers directly. A lot of organic produce, a select amount of cheese or meat stalls and mostly seasonal fruit and vegetables. A great way to support local producers and get a taste of down to earth, local, outdoor market life.

Favourite Bakery in Cagliari

Panificio Pasticceria Argiolas & Porcu

Via Sassari 55

“Come in, my friend!” calls Daniela, as I wait patiently in a social-distancing queue outside this small family-run bakery. I’m no longer asked if we’re here on holiday – after 5 months I’ve become a regular. The focaccia is excellent but our favorite daily bread is the Bastoncini, an elongated roll, moist soft center with a firm but gentle crust. We find it keeps very well too. On day two, toss them in the oven or under the grill for a few minutes for hot breakfast roll! Otherwise, 1cm slices of this are great with antipasti. If we have leftovers on day three I’ll usually toast these into large crouton chunks for a Panzanella or a Caesar salad. The crunchy dough picks up the tasty dressing and won’t fall apart in the salad.

Best for Global Specialities

Il Suq

Via Napoli 19/21

Il Suq is an Aladdin’s cave for me! Stop by this place first so you know what international specialities you can get here before heading to any supermarket.

Il Suq is a clean, tidy, family run shop with a decent selection of produce from around the world. Prices are reasonable and you’ll find almost everything you need for a well-stocked cruiser’s pantry. Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise, sauces, miso, seaweed sheets and wasabi for sushi nights. Tahini for making your own hommus. Coconut milk powder and Thai curry pastes of all colours. Chutneys and ghee to perk up those Indian curry nights. Basmati or Jasmin rice in 5kg bags, along with dried beans and pulses. Marmite and pomegranate molasses. Countless chilli sauces and even dried chillies from Mexico. A treasure!

Best for Asian & Indian spices

Sardinia Market

Via Lodovico Baylle, 24 (Corner of Via Sardegna)

The small streets of Cagliari are dotted with muslim shops and takeaways and may will have a selection of Indian spices, rice and selected veg. The biggest choice and best prices are in this large corner store a 5 minute walk from the marina. Walk through the shop to the back which is where you’ll find rice in 3 kg or 5kg bags, all manner of spices and even asian dried shrimp for some Thai salad. If you’re there on the day they get delivery, you’ll be able to bag bunches of fresh coriander/cilantro, fresh methi leaves or those fiery, Indian green chillies.

Chinese Supermarket (has no name)

Viale Trieste – coming from Piazza del Carmine, you’ll find it on the left hand side a few shops down.

I’m reluctant to include this place as I rarely enjoy shopping at a Chinese supermarket. Lorenzo boycotts them entirely and is probably right to. Anyway. When you want to stock up on soy sauces, oyster sauce, Lao Gan Ma chilli sauce with black beans, all manner of chinese noodles, dried mushrooms, Korean gochuchang, tofu and lots more, this is a place to come. You’ll also find bags of fresh mung bean sprouts, Napa cabbage, ginger and herbs. Just don’t expect service with a smile.

A Great Café 

Pirani

Via Pacinotti 11 (just behind San Benedetto market)

Rest your feet after the San Benedetto market shop and treat yourself to coffee and buns, an aperitivo or lunch.

So much to love about this place. Love the 80’s decor. Love the long white marble counter top. Love the professional waiters. Love the fresh Zeppole that’s served hot sraight from the fryer after 11.30 am – plain or filled with crema or Nutella. (All scrummy!) Love the slightly kitsch decorations that change with the festive season. Love the range of pastries and sandwiches. Love the bustle of guests ordering and quickly sipping their espresso directly at the bar, their bags laden with market shopping slung at their elbows. As for us, we settle at a small marble table, plonk our bags on the floor and start off with a prosecco….

Best Gelateria

Gelateria Kremet

Piazza Yenne, 22, 09124 Cagliari

If you’re anything like us, you’ll be craving a Gelato as soon as you’re in Italy. Seriously, who doesn’t love a creamy, flavourful ice-cream anytime of the year? We’ve licked our way and consumed calories in plenty of places here in Cagliari. Ultimately we discovered the best Gelateria which is conveniently close to the marina. Their Pistacchio (made with the precious Pistacchio di Bronte from Sicily) and Nocciole (hazelnut) are both standout excellent in terms of consistency, taste and texture. All other flavours, seasonal or not, are equally fantastic. No need to say that Lorenzo made me very happy when he turned up with 2 large tubs to stock up our boat freezer before we left Cagliari!

We’d love to know which are your favorites and discover other places we haven’t listed. Please do let us know and share any other tips in the comments!